I realize once the Petropavlovsk bound train has departed that the provodnik is indifferent rather than nice. He looks at me emptily when I ask him for tea and pours me some hot water from the samovar. Smell it he says. I can see that the glass is dirty but I smell nothing. There is something wrong with this water. If you want to drink it I will not be responsible. I decide to do without tea. I share a compartment with a couple in their sixties. They are doing Irkutsk–Adler. It takes five days on three different trains. They are constantly worried about something. In Petropavlovsk they sit the entire three hours on a bench in the tiny waiting area. The man is worried that he will not sleep. The woman is worried about many other things.

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